![]() Alexia Donovan, director of client services at the Barber Surgeons Guild, suggests beginners use thicker blades because their weight makes them a little less flexible, leaving less room for injury. Thin blades are more flexible (imagine a piece of very thin wire versus a very thick piece) and give a closer shave but may have trouble cutting through thick beards. Grinds vary from “full wedge,” which is the thickest and which in cross-section looks a lot like a doorstop or a carrot, all the way down to an “extra hollow,” which is extremely thin and looks more like a tulip in cross section. The shape (or grind) refers to the blade’s actual thickness as well as the way it is formed out of metal. A typical blade is five-eighths of an inch, but they can range smaller or larger - always in eighths of an inch. Straight razor blades come in different sizes (sometimes referred to as thicknesses), measured vertically from the cutting edge to the spine of the blade. Then there’s the size and shape of the blade to consider. ![]() “You need a certain amount of pressure, and the weight of the metal helps.” That said, at least one barber told us they prefer a lighter straight razor, so it may come down to personal preference. Some are fully plastic, which I personally think is too light” he says. “I like them made out of metal because they have a little weight. It is for this reason that Ralph Wilburn, senior barber at Fellow Barber’s Chelsea Market location, always recommends going with a metal razor, no matter the brand. Because a well-balanced and slightly heavy razor improves control and steadies the hand, a razor that’s too light can actually make it more likely that you’ll cut yourself. He says any standard strop should work just make sure it’s at least an inch thick.Īs with safety razors, a bit of heft to your straight razor can actually be helpful. But the strop “straightens out” those tiny bends, and you can really feel the difference when you shave. “Every time you use the razor, you get microscopic bends in the razor,” he explains. If you’re wondering how to sharpen a straight razor at home, Ruscetta says to use a “combination Norton stone with 4,000 grit on one side and 8,000 grit on the other.” You’ll also want to buy a leather strop, which Ruscetta says is an essential. You won’t need to buy refill blades for these razors, but you will have to get them professionally sharpened about once per year (or you can buy the equipment yourself). If your heart is set on a traditional straight razor, though, we’ve included a few options. You have to replace the blade, but the up-front cost of shavettes is relatively low, and their refill blades are pretty cheap (a box of 100 will cost $5 to $6 on average). A shavette still offers the same quality of shave as a traditional straight razor and is actually lower maintenance since the disposable blades don’t need to be sharpened. ![]() Instead, they’ll use a “shavette,” which is basically a blade-holder that accommodates a disposable, single-edge metal blade Ruscetta will often recommend shavettes to beginners. And if you need a straight razor to practice with, we talked to Howard, Ruscetta, and five other barbers and grooming experts to find the best ones for your face.įor hygienic reasons, barbers have to switch blades for each new client, so they will rarely use traditional straight razors with one fixed blade. Practice until no more balloons are harmed, which Valcin says can take around three months. “If you pop the balloon, you’re probably going to cut yourself,” Howard says. Master stylist Yvey Valcin and master barber Julien Howard suggest trying a classic barber-school training exercise before putting the blade to your actual face: Inflate a balloon, cover it with shaving cream, and “shave” the cream off with the razor. It takes a little time to become accustomed to the technique of using a straight razor, especially if you’re starting from scratch. This level of control means that straight razors are especially great for shaping and edging beards, explains master barber Angelo Ruscetta, because “you can see and control exactly where you’re cutting.” That’s because straight razors give you complete control over a blade while safety razors offer only partial control (and cartridge razors offer no control at all). Straight-razor shaving may seem like more trouble than it’s worth, but it’s actually a surprisingly practical option, according to seven barbers we interviewed.
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